Spectacular limestone karst scenery stretches out behind the town of Ninh Binh, in northern Vietnam. The rugged peaks mingle with the green of seemingly endless rice paddies, creating a natural allure that has most visitors captivated for days. Despite the wide range of attractions in the surrounding area, this isn’t a common stop on most Western visitors’ itineraries. Skipping Ninh Binh is a shame because Ninh Binh has retained a quaint atmosphere reminiscent of a bygone era.

Ninh Binh itself is small and convivial, easily explored on foot or motorbike. With its wooden houses and low-key style, it’s a very pleasant base for discovering the surroundings. Most visitors are using Ninh Binh as a gateway to Tam Coc and the Trang An Grottoes, which are both within cycling distance of the town. Peddle through vast expanses of rice fields to Tam Coc, where a boat ride takes visitors through the dramatic limestone karst scenery. The area is exceptionally beautiful, with forests rising hypnotically on near-vertical cliffs. Recently added to the World Heritage list, the grottoes are another feature of the seductive caves, roving karst peaks, and gentle boat rides.

Ninh Binh is on the main highway through Vietnam, as well as being a stop on the Reunification Express railway line. It’s roughly three hours south of Hanoi and four hours north of Vinh. Local buses connect Ninh Binh in both directions although it may be quicker to get a bus and then request a stop in Ninh Binh. Alight in Ninh Binh and it’s easy to be seduced by the natural environment. Nothing is rushed here, and the best way to get around is by bicycle or motorboat, as both Tam Coc and Trang An Grottoes can be cycled to on a half-day excursion.

Also surrounding the town are a series of intriguing historical attractions, notably the ancient capital of Hoa Lu, where the remains of archways and temples date to the early 11th century. Surrounded by rice paddies and canals, the 19th century Phat Diem Cathedral is another popular day trip from Ninh Binh.